How to take photos from a binocular or a microscope?
Monday, January 25th, 2010 at
8:34 pm
yes, both of them are the opposites, but theres a common hurdle to overcome:- focusing. im not looking for something to hold the camera to the binoculars, i just want to snap.
i use a Canon A430, which has the capability to disable autofocus, but i still get an absolutely blurred image on the screen, may it be from a microscope or a binocular. is it possible to take clear images ? will it work with an analog camera?
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Tagged with: Binocular • From • Microscope • photos • take
You either need to remove the eyepiece of the instrument or focus your camera at infinity so that the focal plane of the lens is right at the CCD. I have done the latter with microscopes, telescopes and binoculars and it works very well with my cannon powershot (no endorsement intended). To make sure that your camera is focused at infinity, disable the autofocus, take it outside and manually focus a very distant object (something that is farther than 500 ft).
You will need an adaptor for each device to connect the camera to that device. One for microscope and one for binoculars.
Here is a good one for the binoculars … great for the wildlife photos ….
http://www.opticsplanet.net/swarovski-10×42-el-binocular-snap-shot-camera-adapter-44077.html
So Great
Just “save as” jpg tiff or whatever. Be sure to click bellow “select file format”. It’s a bit random but it works, lol
This is the all-around best one volume field guide to insects in North America. It employs retouched photographs for the images and includes representative profiles at actual sizes, which are very handy. The most difficult task for a guide like this is helping you find your way through 2,350 pictures of bugs. Its solution is a rough categorization of 13 body types, which are fairly easy to browse visually, so generally we’ve been able to identify most of what we find to the genus level. (Species level identification of an insect often requires more information and a microscope. This book assumes you are doing “naked eye” identification.) It is more up-to-date and comprehensive than other equivalent guides. It is also backpackable and ruggedly made. All-in-all a solid dependable guide to this vast kingdom of life.
— KK
Kaufman Field Guide to Insects of North America
Eric R. Eaton, Kenn Kaufman
2007, 392 pages
$13
Available from Amazon
Book website
Sample Excerpts:
*
http://www.yourbirdfeeder.com/binocular-harness-system
Another important benefit of the binocular harness system is that your binoculars will be held in place while you are using your camera to photograph birds.
http://bit.ly/cv0IfY?q=Goodnight-binocular-harness-strap-big-ass-and-tits-noma-midget-10-weeks-pregnant
Dreams – A microscope through which we look at the hidden occurrences in our soul.
You have no clue what you are talking about do you? they don’t need to be underground. And what do you mean buy “they need a magnetic field cancelling which”, that makes no sence at all. Ther building structure allows them to be in contact with vibrations. They do have to be built on flat level grounds though. You have absoulutely no understandings of a microscope.
Currently reading
Nikon 7×35 Action Wide Angle Porro Prism Binocular with 9.3-Degree Angle of View
A few points here. Magnification is the enemy of stable views. 7×50 are generally considered the "standard" astro size but older people (mid thirties upwards) do not have eyes that can take in all the light they give. There are two alternatives to that – go up in magnification (usually to 10x) or down in aperture (e.g. to 42mm). 10×50s are often quoted as the way to go for this reason but that is too powerful for many people to hold hand held – a pair of 7×42s or 8×42s may be a better bet.
A bino mount is one option, but that loses the fundamental portability advantage of binos. If you are going to start erecting a mount in my view you may as well set up a telescope.
Alternatively, you might want to consider image stabilised binos. I have a pair of Canon 12×36s here that are image stabilised and are absolutely wonderful in use – it is difficult to compare them to regular binos in that they are effectively a completely different class of instrument. Alas, they are not cheap – that pair cost me £450 maybe six months ago. You can get a fairly good scope for that much, although they are not particularly expensive when compared to traditional binos of comparable optical quality.
RT Here are some photos of HHDL in Bloomington, Indiana, USA, on May 11th and 12th
Cover all costs and add 20%. but selling for 'freinds' can be frought with other problems.
Will your friend sell if item goes for 99p?
Who will get the bad feedback if the deal goes sour? YOU
Your reputation in your friends hands?
Bye moni